How to Build Strong, Beautiful Drawers Using the Quarter-Quarter-Quarter Method
If you've ever struggled with complicated drawer joinery or ended up with drawers that don't quite fit right, this method is about to change your life. The "quarter-quarter-quarter" technique uses simple dado cuts to create professional-looking drawers with clean joinery and rock-solid construction.
No dovetails required. No complicated math. Just a table saw, a dado stack, and some straightforward measurements. Let's build some bulletproof drawers.
Tools & Materials You'll Need
Tools:
Table saw with dado stack
Zero-clearance insert (critical for safety)
Miter gauge
Tape measure
Clamps
Brad nailer (optional)
Pencil for labeling
Materials:
Drawer sides, fronts, and backs: 1/2" hardwood or plywood
Drawer bottoms: 1/2" plywood (stronger than 1/4" material)
Drawer slides: Your choice (16" used in this example)
Wood glue
The Quarter-Quarter-Quarter Setup:
Dado stack: 1/4" wide
Blade height: 1/4"
Fence distance from blade: 1/4"
Hence the name—everything's set to a quarter inch.
Step 1: Measure Your Drawer Opening (0:00-1:00)
Before cutting anything, you need to know your drawer dimensions.
What to measure:
Height available: Measure the vertical space where drawers will go
Drawer opening width: Measure the cabinet opening width
Drawer depth: Based on your drawer slide length
Example measurements from the video:
Total height available: 12"
Bottom drawer height: 6"
Top drawer height: 3.5"
Drawer slide length: 16"
Cabinet opening width: 22"
Important: Leave space between drawers, below the bottom drawer, and above the top drawer for proper clearance and hardware.
Step 2: Calculate Drawer Box Dimensions (1:15-3:30)
Time for a little math—but it's easier than it looks. Grab your measurements and a calculator.
Overall Drawer Box Dimensions
Depth: Same as your drawer slide length
Example: 16" slides = 16" deep drawer box
Width: Cabinet opening minus 1" (for drawer slides)
Each slide is 1/2" thick × 2 sides = 1" total
Example: 22" opening - 1" = 21" drawer box width
Individual Part Dimensions
Drawer Sides (the pieces that run front to back):
Length: Same as drawer box depth
Example: 16" long
Drawer Fronts and Backs:
Length: Drawer box width minus 1/2" (for joinery)
The 1/4" deep grooves on both ends = 1/2" total
Example: 21" - 1/2" = 20.5" long
Drawer Bottom:
First dimension: Drawer depth - 1/2" (for groove) - 1/16" (wiggle room)
Example: 16" - 1/2" - 1/16" = 15 7/16"
Second dimension: Drawer width - 1/2" (for joinery) - 1/16" (wiggle room)
Example: 21" - 1/2" - 1/16" = 20 7/16"
Cut List for Example Drawer:
(2) Sides: 16" long
(1) Front: 20.5" long
(1) Back: 20.5" long
(1) Bottom: 15 7/16" × 20 7/16"
IMAGE SUGGESTION 1: Labeled drawer parts laid out showing sides, front, back, and bottom with dimensions marked (Reference: 3:30-4:00)
Step 3: Label Your Parts (4:00-4:30)
Once everything's cut, immediately label each piece before you forget.
Labeling system:
Mark the OUTSIDE face of each component
Write what it is: "front," "back," "left side," "right side"
If you see the mark, that face points outward
Why this matters: You're about to cut grooves and joints. Labels prevent you from accidentally cutting joinery on the wrong side and ruining a piece. Trust me, it happens.
Step 4: Set Up Your Table Saw (4:30-5:30)
The quarter-quarter-quarter method is all about the setup. Get this right, and everything else is easy.
Critical setup requirements:
Install a 1/4" dado stack
Set dado height to 1/4"
Position fence 1/4" from the blade
Install a GOOD zero-clearance insert
Safety note: You MUST use a zero-clearance insert for this method—not one you've used for larger dados. You need solid support between the blade and fence because you'll be running pieces vertically. Without proper support, this becomes dangerous.
Step 5: Test Your Setup (5:30-6:30)
Never start with your actual drawer parts. Make test cuts first.
Testing procedure:
Take two scrap pieces from the same material
Run one piece flat against the table (horizontal)
Run the other piece vertically against the fence
Test fit the two pieces together
What you're looking for: The joint should fit together fairly loose with just a little wiggle room.
Adjusting the Joint
If too tight: Bump the fence toward the blade (slightly closer) to remove more material
If too loose: Bump the fence away from the blade (slightly to the right) to remove less material
Make tiny adjustments—we're talking barely moving it. Test again until the fit is right.
PRO TIP #1: Getting the fit right on test pieces saves you from ruining expensive drawer parts. Take your time here.
IMAGE SUGGESTION 2: Test pieces showing proper joint fit with slight wiggle room between dado and tongue (Reference: 6:00-6:30)
Step 6: Cut Bottom Panel Grooves (6:30-7:30)
With your setup dialed in, start with the groove for the bottom panel.
What to cut: All drawer fronts, backs, AND sides
Orientation:
Your label mark should be face UP
Mark registers against the fence
Piece lays flat on the table
Process:
Run each piece through the dado with the inside face down
The groove should be 1/4" from the bottom edge
Cut all fronts, backs, and sides
This groove will hold the drawer bottom panel.
Step 7: Cut Side Piece End Grooves (7:30-8:30)
Now we're cutting grooves into the ENDS of the side pieces only.
Important: Move your fronts and backs away from the table saw so you don't accidentally grab them.
Orientation:
Groove from step 6 faces DOWN (inside of drawer)
Your label mark faces UP (outside of drawer)
Use the miter gauge
Piece registers against the fence
Cut both ends of each side piece.
Safety note about using fence + miter gauge: Some people say this is dangerous, but it's safe here because you're NOT making an off-cut. You're cutting a groove into the workpiece. Nothing gets trapped between blade and fence to kick back at you.
IMAGE SUGGESTION 3: Side piece positioned vertically against fence with miter gauge, showing proper orientation with groove facing down (Reference: 8:00-8:30)
Step 8: Cut Front and Back End Joints (8:30-9:30)
Time for the fronts and backs. These cuts are run VERTICALLY against the fence.
This is why the zero-clearance insert is critical. You need solid support.
Orientation:
Your label mark faces OUT (away from fence)
The bottom panel groove faces TOWARD the fence
Piece stands vertical against fence
Good, firm pressure throughout the cut
Cut both ends of the front piece and both ends of the back piece.
Take your time. Keep steady pressure against the fence. This joint needs to be clean.
Step 9: Cut Rabbets on Drawer Bottom (9:30-10:30)
Since you're using 1/2" material for the drawer bottom (much stronger than 1/4" plywood), you need to rabbet the edges so it fits into the 1/4" groove.
What to cut: All four edges of the drawer bottom
Process:
Run the bottom piece vertically against the fence
Same technique as fronts and backs
Good pressure against fence
Cut all four edges
Why 1/2" bottoms? They're dramatically stronger. You can drop tools into the drawer without worrying about busting through. These drawers will handle serious weight.
Step 10: Assembly (10:30-11:30)
With all joinery cut, assembly is surprisingly quick.
Assembly steps:
Apply glue: Add glue to all grooves and joints
Start with sides: Insert the drawer bottom into one side's groove
Add front and back: Slide the front and back pieces onto the bottom and into the side grooves
Add second side: Slide the final side piece on
Check square: Make sure everything's square before clamping
Clamp or nail: Use clamps or a few brad nails to hold while glue dries
It goes together like a puzzle. If you cut everything correctly, parts should slide together easily with just hand pressure.
Let glue dry completely before removing clamps or handling roughly.
IMAGE SUGGESTION 4: Assembled drawer showing clean joinery and flush-fit bottom, with continuous grain visible on sides (Reference: 11:30-12:00)
The Finished Product: Strong, Clean, Professional (12:00-12:30)
Once the glue dries, you've got drawers with:
✅ Very clean joinery – Tight, professional-looking joints ✅ Exceptional strength – Will last decades ✅ Flush-fit bottom – No weak points ✅ Weight capacity – Way stronger than 1/4" plywood bottoms ✅ Continuous grain on sides – Beautiful from the outside
About that visible joinery on the front: Don't worry about it. Once you install your drawer face (the finished front panel), none of this joinery shows. The only thing visible from outside is the continuous grain running along the sides.
Why This Method Works
The quarter-quarter-quarter technique eliminates complexity while delivering professional results:
Simple setup: Everything's 1/4", so no complicated measurements or adjustments
Strong joints: The dado joints are glued on three sides, creating incredible strength
Repeatable: Once set up, you can build dozens of identical drawers
Beginner-friendly: No dovetails, no special jigs, just your table saw
Heavy-duty: That 1/2" bottom means these drawers handle real workshop abuse
Pro Tips Summary
PRO TIP #1: Always make test cuts with scrap before cutting your actual drawer parts. Getting the fit right takes a few minutes but saves expensive materials.
PRO TIP #2: Label everything immediately after cutting. Outside faces should be marked so you always know orientation when cutting joinery.
PRO TIP #3: Use 1/2" material for drawer bottoms instead of 1/4" plywood. The extra strength is worth it—especially for shop drawers that'll hold heavy tools.
PRO TIP #4: Keep that zero-clearance insert in good condition. Replace it when it gets chewed up. Your safety depends on solid support when running pieces vertically.
The Bottom Line: Drawers You Can Be Proud Of
This method produces drawers that look professional, feel solid, and will outlast most furniture. No fancy joinery required, no expensive jigs needed—just accurate setup and careful cutting.
The math might seem fussy at first, but once you do it a few times, it becomes second nature. And that simple quarter-quarter-quarter setup means you can batch out multiple drawers quickly once everything's dialed in.
Now get out there and build some drawers. Your shop cabinets are waiting.
Quick Reference - Setup Checklist:
☐ 1/4" dado stack installed
☐ Blade height: 1/4"
☐ Fence distance: 1/4" from blade
☐ Zero-clearance insert installed (good condition)
☐ Test cuts completed and joint fit verified
☐ All parts labeled on outside faces
Cut Order:
Bottom panel grooves (all fronts, backs, sides)
End grooves (sides only, both ends)
End joints (fronts and backs, both ends)
Drawer bottom rabbets (all four edges)
Products in this video:
Microjig Grr-Ripper: https://amzn.to/3hWc5Ih
Full Extension Drawer Slides: https://amzn.to/3Onp1mo
Freud SD208S: 8" Pro Dado Set: https://amzn.to/3AtUSMH
iGaging 4" & 6" Double Square Set: https://amzn.to/3tHgIIT
INCRA MITER1000SE Miter Gauge: https://amzn.to/3UPw3CR
Magswitch Featherboard: https://amzn.to/3UP3i9u
Titebond Wood Glue: https://amzn.to/3ENZEHz
JORGENSEN 36-inch Cabinet Master Parallel Jaw Bar Clamp Set: https://amzn.to/3EmDFpE
Replaceable Zero Clearance Insert: https://www.infinitytools.com/sawstop...
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